One weekday afternoon, my girlfriend and I decided to escape the Soča Valley and take a drive to Goriška Brda. From Kanal ob Soči, where we were staying at the Soča Guesthouse, the drive to this tucked-away corner of Slovenia takes only about 20 minutes.
Driving from the Valley into the Rolling Hills
Our route led us toward Nova Gorica, but halfway there we turned across a bridge over the Soča and continued along a narrow, slightly cracked forest road, which is also popular among recreational cyclists. This part of the drive is interesting because it feels as though you are crossing the border between two completely different worlds.
After about ten minutes of driving through the forest, a view opened up before us that you can never truly tire of—rolling hills, vineyards, and scattered villages stretching all the way to the horizon. What particularly caught our eye was that nearly every single house seemed to have its own wine cellar.
Gonjače Viewing Tower
Our first stop was the Gonjače Viewing Tower, standing 24 meters high on a small hill in the heart of Brda.
There is a free parking lot next to the tower, and entry to the tower is free of charge. A flight of 144 winding steps leads to the top, slowly revealing an ever-widening view of the surroundings.
Once you reach the top, you are greeted by a view of endless vineyards, hills, and, in the distance, even the Alps and the sea. It is especially beautiful around sunset, when the landscape is bathed in warm hues.
Vila Vipolže – Elegance in the Heart of Brda
Just a few minutes' drive further, we arrived at Vila Vipolže, one of the most beautiful Renaissance villas in Slovenia.
Parking is available right in front of the entrance, which gives you an interesting feeling of being part of another era—like a guest arriving at a manor through private gates. The parking lot is free.
Inside, there is a small museum with an admission fee of €1.50 per person. The exhibition includes fascinating historical items, such as relics from the First and Second World Wars, the walking cane of the last Count of Celje, old frescoes, and models showing the development of the villa itself. We also looked at the concert hall, some more modern art paintings, and the 500-year-old cypress trees.
Dobrovo Castle and a Stop Among Olive Trees
Our next stop was Dobrovo Castle, which we reached in about five minutes from the villa.
Unfortunately, at the time of our visit, the museum collection was closed for renovation work, so we only saw it from the outside. The parking lot by the castle is free.
However, a charming restaurant with a relaxed ambiance nestled among olive trees operates on the ground floor of the castle, where you could easily linger for hours. The prices are reasonable, and the food on the menu is solid.
"The Big Yellow Wine Bottle" – An Unusual Wine Attraction
On our way to our evening destination, we stopped by one of the more unusual sights—a giant yellow wine bottle standing right in the middle of the vineyards.
It is a highly photogenic and somewhat playful symbol of the wine region that is hard to miss as you drive past. Surrounded by vines, it offers a lovely view of the neighboring hills. The yellow windows are a great photo moment and are sprinkled all over Brda.
Dinner in Šmartno – Hiša Marica
The evening brought us to the picturesque village of Šmartno, where we had a reservation at Hiša Marica.
The restaurant is open from 12:00 PM to 10:00 PM and is closed on Tuesdays and Wednesdays, making a reservation nearly essential. The ambiance is exceptional—the old village core, narrow stone streets, and tables set beneath a grapevine canopy.
Two tasting menus are available:
The daily menu (3 courses)
The "Nona Marica" menu (4 courses)
Prices range from around €40 to €50 per person. We each chose our own daily menu, added a glass of rosé, and finished with dessert.
Wine pairings were suggested with each dish, which made choosing very easy, since Brda is famous precisely for its world-class wines. In addition to the set menus, you can order individual dishes or combine them with the menu itself. The prices for these vary depending on your selection.
Our evening began with figs, goat cheese, prosciutto, and almonds, followed by fuži with truffles, then an Angus steak with roasted potatoes, and finally, a chocolate soufflé with vanilla mousse.
The total bill came to €99.50, which included the cover charge (€2 per person). We spent around three hours at the restaurant, which says enough about the relaxed pace and how much we enjoyed the food.
Our Impression
This is a trip that is easy to do even during the week, as the distances are short and the stops follow one another in a very pleasant rhythm.
If you are looking for a combination of views, good food, and relaxed exploration, Brda is highly unlikely to disappoint.